Dyeing is an attempt to increase the commercial value of textile goods. This commercial value involves sensory values such as colors, patterns and modes, and usability values depending on whether the final product is used for clothing, household goods or other uses. These values can be provided in a variety of ways by different materials, such as cotton fibers, yarns, woven fabrics, and knit fabrics, various process modes, including dyeing.
Textile fiber as the main raw material for the textile industry plays a very important role. Textile fibers used in the textile industry are of various kinds. However, in java almost of dyeing still done traditionally, here are some explanation of traditional Dyeing Technique of Java.
The steps of traditional Dyeing Technique
The step of traditional dying technique can be done with both natural and artificial coloring. Here are the simple steps how to do of traditional Dyeing Technique in Java.
- Soak the cloth in the naphtol / dye color zar solution
The fabric is immersed or dyed in a Naphtol solution, and during soaked or dyed the Naphtol solution will enter into the fabric (on the part that is not covered by the night). In order for the coloring results to be flat on all parts of the fabric then there should be a movement, for example groped by hand. the fabric is pulled back like in a scratch.
- Decreasing the dyed fabric
After the Dyeing process is complete, the fabric is hung in a shade so that the water of the solution is carried by the cloth loose from the cloth. or in other words contained in the fabric only Naphtol dyes that actually have entered into the fabric only.
- Generating color with a diazo-salt solution
The dyed fabric is inserted into a diazonium salt solution in an open state and soon becomes evenly distributed. Since the color-generating reaction is rapid, the volume of the generating solution should be sufficient and the diazo component must be greater than the generated Naphtol. on the generation of diazonium salts twice to three times the use of Naphtol.
- Wash / rinse dyed fabric
In the dye batik cloth washing done immediately after mecelup batik cloth. The second washing coincided with the melorod work in which the cloth was put into hot water by the addition of soda ash / soda ash. So on the dyeing of Naphtol batik cloth does not need any wash work using soap.
The use of Dyeing Technique in Java
The dyeing process can be done on textile materials whether it is fiber, yarn or cloth. Dyeing on fibers is usually done to produce a motif or color composition on yarn or cloth that the composition of the color / motif is not the result of printing but the color effects caused by the mixture of fiber.
Yarn dyeing is done to give the color of the yarn and if the yarn is woven will produce a cloth that has a certain composition of the color / pattern of the arrangement and crossing of warp and feed yarns. For example the existing style on the sarong, lurik, shirt boxes, mattress cloth, striped blanket. Fabric dyeing is done to dye the fabric evenly with the same color on the entire fabric. The dyeing process can also cause certain motifs if the fabric / yarn is composed of two or more different types of fibers because each type of fiber has a dyeing ability and different color effects are different to one type of dye used.
Some examples of traditional dyeing that used in Java
The process of dyeing is one of the traditional steps in the manufacture of Batik in Java. Dyeing technique is divided into two, namely jumputan and dye tie techniques. Here are the reviews of them.
- Jumputan Technique
The dumping technique in dyeing is a kind of batik that is made to be done by way of making batik dye stroke, batik coloring without night wear as a barrier material, the entry of the coloring, or the color pattern into the fabric fiber.
How to make batik ikat batik (a term that is often known in some areas), or tie dye jumputan. Textile crafts are made using ropes tied to fabric, which has a function as a color barrier into the fabric fibers. The rope is opened after the dyeing is over. Because the rope bonds on the fabric will create a specific motif is a way of making a simple jumputan batik motifs, The shape of the pattern of motif patterns created is limited to the possibility of the bonding rope. The end result is often a surprise, from the forecast of the previous color.
In a way that is repeated from the process, will create a variety of patterns, is a way to make batik jumputan colorful. Development of motifs and techniques how to dye in the coloring also allows creations created techniques how to make batik jumputan flower motif. Batik jumputan origin technique is then developed and diverse, ranging from how to form patterns of batik patterns and how to make it. By making batik dye 3 color tie, how to make batik dye using marbles, and also how to make batik dye on t-shirts.
- The technique of tie dye in Batik
During this time you may already familiar with the techniques of batik painting, batik tulis, batik sablon, batik cap, until batcetak. But, what about the dye tie technique or dye? Initially, Indonesia is not familiar with this batik technique. The development of tie dye in the world fashion industry gives an influence on the fashion industry in the country. In Indonesia there is no batik tie dye, we just adapt the technique from the outside.
Ghea S. Panggabean is one of the Indonesian designers who developed this technique since the 80s. To make tie dye technique, can be done with 3 stages that is folding, binding, and dipping. Folding is the process to form patterns on a cloth. The folds can be applied like the origami folding technique. The degree of tightness of the bond on the binding process will affect the color recharge of the fabric. Dyeing on color can be done with one or two colors.
Those are a glance explanation of traditional dyeing technique in Java. This technique is trully still exist although there have been many sophisticated technology that used today. Hopefully the information would be useful for those who learn to make Batik fabric in Java.